Hawaii without the lurid tourist glam.
At a Glance
Sparsely populated Moloka'i is the last surviving piece of the old rural Hawaii. It exists in a kind of time warp: no packaged Hawaiiana, no high-rises, and more farmers than tourists - and locals are fighting to keep it that way, protesting, picketing and raising hell against the Moloka'i Master Plan, which is eyeing beguiling La'ua Point for luxury homes.
Although the island has long had a reputation for being wary of outsiders, and is trying not to turn into another Hawaiian playground for part-timers and tourists. But there could be trouble in paradise - paradise attracts pirates, and that's how some see Moloka'i Ranch, with its plan for a 200-lot development at La'ua on the West End.
Fast Facts
Full Name
Moloka'i
Area
264 sq km
102 sq miles
Population
6,800
GMT/UTC
-10 ()
Daylight Saving Start
early April
Daylight Saving End
late October
Languages
Hawaiian (other)
English (other)
Currency
US Dollar
(US$)
Electricity
110V 60Hz
Electric Plug Details
American-style plug with two parallel flat blades above a circular grounding pin
Japanese-style plug with two parallel flat blades
Factoid
Background Information
Time Zone
GMT/UTC -10 ()
Daylight Saving
Start: early April
End: late October
Weights Measures System
Imperial
Weather Overview
Moloka'i has almost perfect weather conditions all year round. Average highs of just under 30Ôø‡C (86Ôø‡F) and average lows of just under 20Ôø‡C (68Ôø‡F), coupled with the fact that the humidity hardly ever moves from manageable, make a holiday in Moloka'i a more than attractive idea.
Pre 20th Century History
Legend says that the kalaipahoa (fire gods), who roamed the heavens as shooting stars, once landed on Moloka'i, where they inhabited a grove of trees. Unsuspecting men who tried to cut down the possessed trees were poisoned upon touching the wood, until at last one of the gods revealed to a kahuna (sorcerer-priest) the secret of how to cut the trees down. For centuries, it is said, the reputation of Moloka'i's priests was so fearsome that the battling armies of nearby Maui and O'ahu were careful to leave Moloka'i alone.
But by the 18th century, the old magic could no longer protect the island from outsiders. The king of O'ahu, Peleioholani, invaded and ruled over Moloka'i. When the daughter he left on Moloka'i was captured and killed by Moloka'i chiefs, Peleioholani returned to the island and took vengeance. Those Moloka'i chiefs who were unable to flee to Maui were captured and roasted alive.
O'ahu continued to rule over Moloka'i until 1785. Then Maui and the Big Island, which were at war with each other, took turns ruling Moloka'i for the next decade. In 1795 Kamehameha the Great invaded Moloka'i with such a large force that it is said his war canoes lined up for four miles along the coast. He quickly brought Moloka'i under his command and then went on to invade O'ahu in a campaign that would eventually unite all of the Hawaiian Islands.
Christian missionaries first arrived in the 1830s, establishing themselves near the densest native populations between Kamalo and Waialua, and on the Kalaupapa Peninsula. In the 1850s, Kamehameha V acquired the bulk of Moloka'i's arable land, forming what is today Moloka'i Ranch, but overgrazing eventually led to the widespread destruction of native vegetation and fishponds. After the King's death and the annexation of Hawaii by the United States, a group of businesses, including the American Sugar Company, attempted to develop a major sugar plantation in central Moloka'i. The company built a railroad system to haul the cane, developed harbour facilities and installed a powerful pumping system to draw up water.
Modern History
By 1901 the well water used to irrigate the fields had become so salinated that the crops failed. The company then moved into honey production on such a big scale that at one point Moloka'i was the world's largest honey exporter. In the mid-1930s, however, an epidemic wiped out the hives and the industry. Attempts continued to find the crop for Moloka'i. Cotton, rice and numerous grain crops were all tried, but finally pineapple took root as the crop most suited to the island's dry, windy conditions. Plantation-scale production began in Ho'olehua in 1920. Within 10 years, Moloka'i's population tripled as immigrants arrived to work the fields.
In the 1970s, competition from overseas brought an end to the pineapple's reign on Moloka'i. Mainland American companies pulled out, leaving hard times and high unemployment levels. Then in 1985 cattle raising, long a mainstay, suddenly collapsed. After finding an incidence of bovine tuberculosis, the government made the controversial decision to destroy every head of cattle on Moloka'i. Moloka'i Ranch has since restocked some of its herd, but the majority of the 240 smaller cattle owners called it quits.
Today the Moloka'i Ranch group still owns about one-third of Moloka'i, or more than half of the island's privately held lands. Many locals consider it a thorn in their side, as traditional outdoor activities are forbidden on ranch land, to which public access is mostly restricted.
Recent History
In the 1990s the ranch operated a small wildlife safari park, where tourists snapped pictures of exotic animals and trophy hunters paid
See
Halawa Beach Park
Surfs Up!
beach
Halawa Beach is a favoured surfing spot. The beach has double coves separated by a rocky outcrop When the water is calm, there's good swimming, but both coves are subject to dangerous rip currents when the surf is heavy. Put in your sea kayak here and you'll see parts of Moloka'i other visitors don't even know exist.
'Ili'ili'opae Heiau
Sacrificial Stone
religious/spiritual
off Hwy 450
This heiau (ancient stone temple) is a huge raised platform of earth and stone, an ancient Hawaiian religious site once used for worship and human sacrifice. Visiting is usually straightforward, but since it is on private property, it's advised that you check with the visitors association in Kaunakakai to see if you need permission in advance.
Kamakou Preserve
mountain ; national park
Kamakou Preserve is an ecosystem that includes cloud forest, bogs, shrub land and habitat for many endangered plants and animals. Much of it is forested with ohia lehua, a native tree with fluffy red blossoms. The preserve also contains Kamakou Peak, which at 1491m (4970ft) is the island's highest point.
Web: http://www.nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states
Events Overview
In mid-January Moloka'i stands up for all things traditional and Hawaiian by hosting the Ka Moloka'i Makahiki, or Ancient Hawaiian Games. This week-long celebration features native Hawaiian sports and events, including an outrigger-canoe fishing contest. Prince Kuhio Day, on 26 March, is a national celebration when Moloka'i and the rest of Hawaii honours Hawaii's first delegate to the US Congress with music, song and dance. Conjuring carnal delights, Lei Day in May is a rhyme too good to pass up and a national holiday; schools all across the state celebrate with outdoor hula dancing, singing, and lei making competitions.
In mid May, the Moloka'i Ka Hula Piko festival celebrates Moloka'i pride as the birthplace of hula dancing with displays of traditional and modern hula. The Starbucks-sponsored Moloka'i Challenge, held in late May, is a 52km (32mi) kayak race across the treacherous Kaiwi Channel, from Kaluakoi Resort to Koko Marina in O'ahu. In September the Aloha Festivals Parade is followed by drag races down Kaunakakai's main street. The Na Moloka'i Hoe, held in October, is Hawaii's major outrigger-canoe race, attracting teams from all over the world, which take off shortly after sunrise on Moloka'i and finish at Waikiki's Duke Kahanamoku Beach about five hours later - less for the winners.
Getting There
Overview
All international flights to Hawaii land at Honolulu Airport. There are inter-island flights to Moloka'i from Honolulu and Maui several times every day. It is also possible and pleasant to take a ferry from Maui. Note that flights to Moloka'i from islands other than Maui require stopping or even changing planes at Honolulu.
Getting Around
Overview
Renting a car on Molokai is just about essential if you intend to explore the island thoroughly. As there are currently only a few rental car companies operating on Moloka'i, it's best to book well in advance, especially if you're planning on going over on a weekend. You can arrange car rentals with free racks for bikes, kayaks and surfboards. Keep in mind that rental vehicles are officially not allowed to be driven on dirt roads, and there can be restrictions on camping as well. Mopeds and bicycles are also available for hire.
There aren't any metered taxis on Moloka'i, but a couple of companies do provide taxi services for set fees. The taxis occasionally meet incoming flights, but to be assured of a ride from the airport, you should make reservations in advance.
Spending
Average Room Prices
| Low | Mid | High | Deluxe |
| US$5-20 | US$20-90 | US$90+ | US$ |
Average Meal Prices
| Low | Mid | High | |
| US$3-6 | US$7-20 | US$20+ |